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三国时期,孙权把秦淮河称作“小江”,并认可其水上军事价值。的确,秦淮河在古代宽阔很多,连接长江。六朝的时候码头更是有百米长。但是随着长江水道北移,秦淮河道变窄,码头也缩短。莫愁湖原来也不存在,而是秦淮河的入江口。现在秦淮河的入江口移至了三岔河。
除了最初的军事演练和交通用途,秦淮河还是划分管制区域的分界线。西晋的时候,秦淮河以北是建业,秦淮河以南叫秣陵。后来司马邺时期为了避讳,改建业为建康,一直沿用至南唐。西晋、东晋的时候秦淮河两岸主要是居民区,与政治中心台城、军事中心石头城是不受影响的两块地区,所以居民区在当时激烈的改朝换代中收到的影响也不大。一直到南朝,秦淮河各条支流两岸依靠自身规律发展,密密麻麻的居民区,还有繁荣的佛教建筑1。秦淮河上建有“长九十步,广六丈”2的朱雀桥。由于当时河面宽阔常出现大风浪,桃叶渡被王献之小妾吐槽“风波了无常,没命江南渡。”但是波涛汹涌并没有影响秦淮河两岸的繁华。相比较而言,城北军事政治区严肃、命运坎坷,虽然一直有人使用,但是总体而说,南北用地乃至经济都十分不均横。这一反差一直持续到近代。
六朝之后的隋唐开始,随着隋文帝的北迁,南京开始受到冷落。虽然秦淮河两岸的居民区没有受到很大的打击,但是旧政权支持下新建的建筑却成了新政权的眼中钉--他们担心这些旧建筑,比如丹阳郡城3和阿育王寺,会给城民们留下关于前朝辉煌的回忆,进而鼓励了复辟,最终危害到新政权的稳定。
然而没有人知道是否毁坏这些旧时代地标性建筑真的起了什么作用,但是有一点可以肯定的是,秦淮河以北虽然杂草长出了城头,但是秦淮河两岸繁华不减4。这个现象不仅是因为,向前面我们说的,居民区靠自身规律发展,而且是因为大量隋唐文人墨客带动的文化经济。他们拜着六朝故都的旧名和秦淮江南文化盛世5而来:李白、杜牧、刘禹锡等都曾经借秦淮河岸感叹王朝的更迭,或者秦淮人家的点滴抒发自己心中的郁结。当诗人们自己的形象跃然诗上时,今人对于南京文化历史记忆也逐渐丰满。
隋唐之后的南唐虽然短暂,但是南唐对于南京的规划创举却影响了世世代代:秦淮河两岸正式被算在统治的都城范围内,形成与统治阶级互相扶持的状态。自李昇定都南京(“金陵城”),他便十分重视秦淮河居民区的经济文化价值,并很确切的将居民区和商业区划在都城范围之内6。南唐的60年是稳定的60年,特别是商业发展,以致门西出现了很多手工商业作坊7。但是奇怪的是,虽然南唐多次重建金陵城,南唐的文化在今天的南京里没有多少印记。据称这是因为统治者没有在政策或者建筑形态中特意加强8南唐政权对于南京市民文化的影响。
不管是秦淮河还是什么别的河,自古居民区都依河而建。于是随着人口增多,房屋和道路的走向逐渐形成了江南水乡特有的弯曲形态。北宋因为秦淮河枯水期和水道明显变迁,空出的河床很快被人们所占领。他们建的房子叫河房,是以筑地基、撑木桩、沿河搭起来的房子。这些河房大多在内秦淮河两岸,和小型商贸铺子相辅相成。外秦淮河由于更近长江的缘故,两岸主要是发展商贸。明朝时内城墙的建设就是考虑到这一点,选择沿外秦淮河南下建筑来控制城内外交通。外城墙的两岸有朱元璋所建的十六楼,供来往人士娱乐住宿。
1 南岸有以长干寺、高座寺、瓦宫寺为代表的9座寺庙;北边有如冶城寺等十二座。
2《建康实录》
3 今箍桶巷一带。现在附近基本上是陆地,而且离内秦淮河相距甚远,可见河道的变迁。
4 《隋书-地理志下》说“丹阳旧京所在,人物本盛。小人率多商贩,君子资于劳碌。”
5 诗词中记载的秦淮河畔有凤凰台,白下亭,三山,白鹭洲,劳劳亭,卢龙山,板桥浦(今板桥),瓦宫阁,瓦宫寺,西楼,乌衣巷,秦淮酒家,杏花村,朱雀桥(南谢公堡)
6 明顾起元《客座赘语》:“南唐都城,南止于长干桥,北止于北门桥。。。当时建国规摹,其经画亦不苟矣。“
7 锦绣坊、颜料坊、油坊巷、洋珠巷、船板巷、盐市、骡马市、牛市、羊市、鱼市、罗X市,鸡行街、花行街、银行街
8 其实除了李昇体恤民情和奖励农桑以外,另外两位并没有延续他政策上简朴爱民的作风。
Qinhuai River joined Yangtze River through Muo Chou Lake (which was only river mouth by then)in the past, and it had been much wider. It had value in military, coommerce, and administrative regulation. Due to the separation of major residential area and the political center in a long time, Qinhuai River, in city south and filled with residential land use, had been growing in its own pace. This land use pattern resulted in the lack of balance of city north and city south's development.
But that unique pace of development didn't last forever due to many disrupts later on. Since Nan TANG, both shores of Qinhuai River were incorporated into one regulation. The original development pace was disrupted, due to the royal family's request for mutual support between residential area and the political center. The second disruption was in SUI and TANG, when Nanjing was no longer the political center. The ruler who resides in Luoyang ordered demolition of monumental structures from previous ruler, such as King A Yu tower (now the Da Bao En Temple)which was near Qinhuai River. Many poets, writers and artists visited Nanjing and reflected on the changes. The third disruption was in MING when Nanjing became capital again, the emperor migrated in and out tens of thousands of household to Nanjing. This significantly challenged Nanjing's economic structure and the activities along Qinhuaii River.
Along Qinhuai RIver, you are likely gonna see the "River House" that could be traced back to Bei SONG when the river slightly moved and dried. The houses were unique for its two-side openings (one on river one on land)that allowed visitors from both river and land to come in and visit or trade, while the household who managed the business was able to live.
Unfortunately, such old residential/commercial structure no longer exist due to an urban renewal project in 1980s. The river deteriorated fast in 1930s due to lack of regulation for trash discharge. I still remember the unpleassant odor when I was a kid playing along the shore. In recent years, Qinhuai River had gotten so much better and continues to attract visitors. You could take a boat trip, especially at night, and tour along the river. Tang Fang Lang is where you could find River Houses that were not completely demolished.
秦淮河
Qinhuai River Park
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虽然河房的原有两面通透已经因为1980老城区改造而消失,但是秦淮河这个整体早早的在1928《市政计划》 中被列为五大公园9之一。后来的勘测报告中说秦淮河污染严重,提出一些治理方案,全部被大跃进和文化大革命耽搁了,直到50多年后,才得到真正的治理。我还记得上小学的的时候经过秦淮河支流(鸡鸣寺武庙匝一带)河上飘来的阵阵臭味。近10年来,秦淮河水质终于有所改善,并延续其娱乐休闲、文化商贸、怀古的氛围,如夫子庙、画舫游、花鸟市场、三山街等。老小区聚集区,比如具有民国民居风情的太平南路的慧园里,和糖坊廊河房特色建筑群,也值得喜欢钻巷子的体验一下民国风情。
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秦淮区贡院西街53号
秦淮画舫,河房,夫子庙,两岸风情